OK, this one is really all about the drive. It may be 3+ hours away, but that’s still a day trip in my book. Particularly when the 3-hour drive takes you past and through some of the greatest California scenery you could hope for. Start early and eat breakfast at home. Pack a lunch for the hike or the beach, and stop for dinner on the way home. This is a great day trip that can also lead to a weekend trip if you like.
The Road to Take: They day starts like this: leave early, like 8 or 9 am. Take Highway 101 North out of Marin County and head up Highway 128 West into Cloverdale. In Cloverdale, there’s a good BBQ spot if you want to buy a sandwich to go for later, its called Hamburger Ranch and BBQ and it also serves breakfast.
But basically you set your Nav system for Philo, CA and then on to Van Damme Sate Park in Little River, CA. Highway 128 is a wonderful road that winds through the Anderson Valley and the town of Philo, home to some great wineries like Goldeneye (Pinot Noir, mainly), Navarro Vineyards (many varietals), and Roederer Estate (best known for their bubbly!). The view of the Navarro River Valley is stunning at any of these stops, but we are particularly in love with Goldeneye. But you might save these for later in the day or another trip. Or maybe this is as far as you’ll go, which is fine, too! Philo is also home to the inviting and always tasty Anderson Valley Brewing Company, where you can pick up some Boont Amber Ale, Barney Flats Oatmeal Stout, or Hop Ottin’ IPA.
Leaving out of Philo, you move from beautiful vineyards and farmland into shady redwood forests, and generally there is very little road traffic. The road takes you out to Higwhay 1, where you can turn south toward Point Arena or North toward Mendocino and Little River. That’s the goal today: from the Highway 128 / Highway 1 intersection where Highway 1 crosses the Navarro River, it’s just 10 minutes North to Van Damme State Park and the Little River Beach. Stop and enjoy the view from the beach parking lot but then proceed in the gate to Van Damme and pay your $8 parking fee. Continue to the far end of the road through the park, about 1/4 mile to the Fern Canyon Trailhead. It probably took you three hours to get here from much of the Bay Area, so maybe you want to eat your packed lunch on the beach before you hike, or you could bring it on the hike and eat at the picnic tables in the rustic campsites at the end of the trail.
The Hike: The Fern Canyon Scenic Trail is an out-and-back trail that is just about 4-5 miles round trip. We generally prefer to turn around at the point the trail does a loop up into the Pygmy Forest. If you do that full full loop, it’s 8 miles. Totally cool, too, but my favorite part if the lower canyon with the Creek. It’ll take you maybe an hour and a half to walk to the end of loop intersection where the trails part, then back again If you choose to go up and around the hilly loop, add another hour or so. The trail will treat you to shady fern gullies, burbling creeks (earlier in season) and a peaceful walk to reset your brain chemistry while encouraging thoughtful introspection. Who know you could get all that from a Day’ve Trip?
The Road Back: If you left early, brought lunch, hiked the loop, it’s likely getting on to the mid to late afternoon. If it’s really late and you just want dinner, try the Little River Inn or head 10 minutes north into Mendocino and try the Mendocino Cafe. But if you still have a few hours to kill, of course you could go back the same way you came. But life’s too short for repeats. Take the long way home and enjoy the coastal route. Head down Highway 1 all the way home. Yes, it’ll be 3.5 to 4 hours home. The entire route is scenic and you get to stop in a couple hours for dinner in any number of cool places like Elk, Gualala, Sea Ranch, Timber Cove, Bodega Bay, or Petaluma. You’ll also have a chance to stop and see the cool Point Arena Lighthouse (featured in at least one movie: the race seen et the end of “The Need for Speed”). Most importantly, you’ll ooooh and ahh at every turn of scenic Highway 1, being treated to some of the most dramatic coastline views you could hope for. If you haven’t been here, or it’s been a while, just go do it. It’s like you’re a thousand miles away and 40 years back in time. No Starbucks, no crowds, barely any cell service or gas stations (fill up!). Refreshing, invigorating, and dare I say: life-affirming.
One other road option home: For the truly adventurous, turn inland at Stewarts Point on Skaggs Springs Road. It’s a narrow (sometime barely one lane), winding road through the mountainous forestland, along the Wheatfield Fork of the Gualala River, ultimately dropping you near Lake Sonoma, and the Dry Creak area north of Healdsburg on Highway 101. Not for everyone, but if you love to drive fun roads like I do, it’s a treat.
Leave a Reply